Sabtu, 20 Januari 2018

Simple House Dresses, 1940 & 1941



1940s Lutterloh patterns German WWII fashion


Oh, December already.  . . .I bet by now the holidays will be creeping up on you but don't forget to make some time for yourself. So far, it has been remarkably mild and even warm here in Michigan. There has been some considerable sunshine and rain (no snow really yet although we had a light 'dusting' last month) so I don't feel too bad about offering a pattern that is not really wintery. Want a little sewing project? How about these simple house dresses?
From both 1940 and 1941, a sampling of three simple housedress patterns that are relatively simple in design. When looking at the pattern, these dresses are not fitted like the normal 40s dresses but are instead taken in at the waist with a belt or sash that can be made out of any material desired. The fullness of these dresses is controlled at the shoulders with a front and back yoke with the lower body and skirt portions either pleated or gathered to fit.
Sleeves? Choose from a short sleeve or a long one that are made with a one piece sleeve pattern gathered into the arm hole to fit. What is nice about these patterns in particular is that your options are endless.  . . you could with this one pattern page do a long sleeved dress, a short sleeved dress, a dress that buttons in the back or else the front. Pockets? Go right on ahead and be creative. Collar? Feel free to add one. Prints, striped, plaids, or solids? The options are yours for the choosing. Materials? Cotton, wool, rayon, etc. If you are new to the pattern system here, this is an excellent pattern to start with as the construction for these can vary immensely.
Studying the pattern card myself, I believe that the top two bodice pieces, the yokes, are the ones for the back buttoning version. Why? Because the illustration for the back buttoning dress is between them. For the version that buttons on the front, they are below and tagged as 'v.passe' - the front, and then 'H. Passe' - the back. For the skirt portions, I believe that 'Ruckenteil' is the back of the garment'. Another indication why I think this the back is that if you study the back pieces, the yoke and skirt, there is a small upper case 'B'. That letter says those points much meet in my own experience. For the front, there are 'A''s, those are the front pieces that ought to meet. There are not pattern pieces given for the pockets.

1940s Lutterloh patterns German WWII fashion
Another idea for this dress is that since the sizing is really controlled at  the waist with a belt or sash, this makes an nice maternity dress or simply a beginners dress too because there is really very little fitting to mess with. As you can see in the illustration, you can make these dresses as simple or as complex as you want and I think this pattern is a good foundation to start with and to keep in your pattern box. Actually, just by looking at the picture, you can add complexity not with your sewing skills but with your fabric choice and pattern layout. One dress uses a plaid and a solid, and the other a stripe going in two distinct directions. As you work your way through the patterns, you will notice that you can mix and match them at your leisure.  . . .
In making this one up, there is no right or wrong way here so have some fun and explore the patterns and how they go together. Have fun . . .Need the ruler? Just ask . . .


(Final note. I noticed that one of the numbers on the back of the skirt/ body got cut off (my fault) but the number is 98. )