One of the things that really attracted me to the 40s was the 19th century elements that were clearly evident. As a Civil War reenactor who wore these certain characteristics, I saw these things right away from the high collars, fitted bodices, and other subtle design elements. In German women's fashion I saw these things immediately and thought it was rather interesting especially since the Nazi regime had implemented rather Victorian standards such as their racial family policy which reinforced the notion of women in the home and men out in the public sphere. Racial purity, and eugenics were other 19th century elements evident in the Nazi regime too. Another component to the Nazi policies that had rather Victorian elements was their encouragement of women to have a many children as possible while still maintaining a household. Evidence of this Victorian culture in American society can be found in Godey's Lady's Book - a popular ladies magazine in the 19th century. Besides American culture, other societies and cultures also shared this ideal in the 19th century.
It may be odd that a century known for opulent and excessive clothes would have inspired a decade stricken with war, rationing, and shortages, but really it is not - I promise. Throughout history, fashion has been inspired by previous decades and trends for political, social, cultural, and personal reasons. For the 40s, I believe that the 19th century inspired German fashion for cultural and political reasons because many Nazi elements have rather Victorian roots. As users of the visual, the Nazi regime relied heavily on propaganda in various forms from film, posters, banners, uniforms, and yes, women's clothing. Reflecting these Victorian trends then is an attempted political statements that was subtle. One could argue on the fact that using these elements was an attempt to be fashionable and on trend with the rest of the world too because many American and French fashions had these Victorian elements too. So, is German fashion a statement on its own or a mirror to the fashions around it? That is a question scholars still debate today.
Before continuing, take a look at some of these dresses from the Lutterloh books from 1942. What is interesting about these books as a whole is that it is now possible to see the final progression of fashion in Nazi Germany between 1940 -1942. Although I don't have access to the books from 1943 - 1945, I have to reserve speculation simply due to a lack of evidence. What is evident though is that so far from what I can tell, as the war progressed, the Victorian elements increased significantly. The reason for this trend could be due to a variety of factors such as increased pressure to adhere and support their ideology to pressure to create their own fashion industry to compete with the French fashion houses, or German fashion was simply trying to remain fashionable by adhering to larger fashion trends which included a Victorian element.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1942 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1942 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1942 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1942 |
In these 1942 examples, the Victorian elements are more connected to early Victorian dressmaking techniques rather than late. What is interesting to note, and what I mentioned in a paper I did, was that German fashion connected more with the early Victorian fashion trends while French and American fashion more to the late Victorian period. Some Victorian elements included high necklines, smocking, pointed bodices, and fitted bodices with skirts gathered or pleated.
For 1940 and 1941, there is still this Victorian element but it is mostly in the folk wear or dirndls which is not too surprising since this traditional wear or clothing is drawing heavy from the past at times. What is more remarkable for me is that these Victorian elements are found in clothes beyond the traditional costumes. For the clothes that are not too peasant but are aiming for fashionable, there is, again, this Victorian element that can be seen. From 1940 -1941:
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
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| A rather traditional style of dress from Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941. This dress was definitely inspired by traditional costume with the overall styling |
Besides the overall design of 40s women's wear and many Civil War era dresses, construction is another element they have in common. In both eras, dresses were constructed simply and the interior seams were not always finished. During the 40s seams were finished in an assortment of way from whipped stitched edges to pinked ones . . other finishes were nothing at all . . . On my original German dress, the interior seams are not finished and never were. The fabric frays only slightly but not enough to be a major concern. One difference would be lining, many 40s dresses were not lined (slips worn underneath easily served as such) while Civil War dresses were flat lined (lining and dress fabric sewn and treated as one)
Do you see the Victorian elements in 40s fashion? Why do you think the 40s drew from the 19th century?
Sources and Further Reading:
Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich by Irene Guenther
Fashion by the Kyoto Fashion Institute
Fashions and Costumes from Godey’s Lady’s Book edited by Stella Blum
60 Civil War –Era Fashion Patterns edited by Krinstina Seleshanko
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques Edited by Kristina Harris
Assorted Der Goldene Schnitt books in my own collection dating from 1940 - 1942 and 1949
