When I started collecting the Der Goldene Schnitt patterns books, I started buying one a year. I figured once a year, my little collection would grow one book larger. This makes my third book. This year, I purchased one with a copyright year of 1949. This book arrived weeks ahead of time and I was beyond thrilled. I think that this is the most glamorous book yet and it has such incredible variety. From stylish suits to housecoats, beach wear (lots of it too), smart dresses, and interesting separates . . even a couple of hats too. There are even knitting and little applique patterns included near the back.
Beyond the lovely patterns, there was something more valuable and more beautiful in this book that goes beyond the patterns. When I realized what I had, I nearly cried because answers to some very old questions were finally answered. When I began collecting these books, I asked myself 'how much would this have cost back then' and 'who could the original owner of this book could have been?' And so on and so forth. This book held all the answers because in the front was the receipt.
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| The Receipt |
This book was ordered on November 3, 1950 and was received by its first owner on January (?) 22, 1951. The owner of this book was Ann Kuhl. Her final payment was, I think, 800 with a COD fee of 80. The amounts are noted with 'Frs.' and I don't know what that means but I feel confident in saying that the 800 and 80 are in marks. But I could be wrong. . . I think the original cost of this book was 1450 marks but Anne must have mailed in a down payment when she ordered the book.
Included on the receipt is Anne's address, including her 'place of residence', 'road', and 'postal district' based on Google translate.
I truly cannot begin to describe how elated I was to see and decode (although rather poorly) this little scrap of information. In this little piece of paper, some of my most pressing questions about the Der Goldene Schnitt books was answered. I had looked high an low for these answers on the internet, in obscure reference books and here it is . . in my very own hands. Again, I cannot describe how elated I am. It is so thrilling and humbling to be one of the owners of this book and to know the original owner! I cannot help but to wonder now who she was. . . What were her favorite designs? What was her favorite color? Did she have children? A husband? A sweetheart? Could she knit or just sew? Did she make up some of the beach wear or pajama patterns? The evening wear ones? Or the house dresses? Was she practical or glamorous? Oh how I long to know!!!! I wish she had scribbled on the margins her thoughts on this little book!! Oh Ann!! Who were you like??? What did you like from this little book? Is it not funny how many questions are answered and then how many are not? Is it not funny that the more you know, the less you truly do know?
Better yet about this book, the blend of fashions . .
The sharp austerity of the 40s and excessive glamour of the 50s seem to have very little in common being nearly polar opposites but the fashions that prevailed in the 50s were born in the 40s. To be more precise, the year 1947 with Dior’s New Look. This New Look brought the introduction of fuller skirts, rounded figures and an excessive use of fabric. When generally looked over, the 40s stood in stark contrast. How did the looks in the 40s transform to the looks in the 50s? Because as we all know, change is so gradual . . . and then all at once.
My newest copy of Der Goldene Schnitt from 1949 reveals some interesting trends and transformations that reveal how the fashion of the 40s shifted to the more iconic looks of the 50s. What is particularly neat about this book is that there seems to be more variety here and I believe that is because we are now at an interesting moment with fashion, a threshold if you will. In this book are clothes that are distinctly 40s in styling and cut. They have the squared shoulders, A lined skirts, and are masculine in styling. Alongside these are looks are those that are clearly and distinctively 50s. They are feminine, curvy, and utilize peplums, flared collars, and other fanciful dressmaking trimmings and techniques that are excessive and elaborate to create looks that leave the war in the previous decade behind.
More interesting yet, are the 40s looks that are “edited” to give more of a 50s styling. These looks are austere, plain, and yet with a few added touches that transform once dated looks to those that are up to date and modern (well, in the sense when this book was published). This book as a whole is a rather interesting one because it is offering to women
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| At the back of the book, some color pages in a little folder . . .very unique . . . |
