Personally, I adore vintage undergarments. They are both practical and decorative in nature and deserve closer inspection. For this post, I want to focus on the different ways 40s bras and tap pants can be adorned. Based on the research that I have been able to do, 40s bras and tap pantswere rather flimsy. China silk, slinky rayon, and soft cottons were the most popular materials. Now, this makes sense for tap pants, yes? But what about the more supportive garments like bras and girdles? Girdles were constructed out of much more robust materials and you can read more about them here. I will not be focusing on girdles though, just tap pants and bras. Bras were, like the tap pants, made of rather thin materials. Based on one original in my collection, bras were not lined. So what gave them structure and body? Simple, top stitching. Lots and lots of top stitching that was both decorative and functional. The bra then closes in the back with hook and eyes. For wearing ease, there is some elastic.
Based on Lutterloh patterns, bras were simply constructed consisting of around 3 pieces. The top cup, the lower cup and the sides. The shape of each bra is consistent from pattern to pattern with only slight variation here and there. Tap pants on the other hand vary a great deal from very simple patterns to those that are very complex with multiple parts. My favorite patterns are the most- simple ones. Depending on your body type, you may utilize a different pattern than the individuals alongside you.
Tap pants can have elastic waists or can have a fixed waist band. If they use a fixed waist band, they can close with hook and eyes, buttons, or even snaps. To see an original pair in my collection and some of my research, look here.
With all this research and admiring of originals, I just had to make up a couple versions for myself. In each set, which I made to be matching I tried to utilize different techniques and embellishments. Each technique is very simple and can be replicated at home. Some, of course, require more practice than others . . . . something I have learned myself. Each set was made with only 1 yard of material with some creative cutting and planning.
Pink Set with Lace Applique
This was my first set made up in light pink china silk. The bra and tap pant were embellished with cotton lace applied in lines and angles inspired by a German illustration.
The tap pants have a fixed waist band and are accented with a baby silk rose. The lace applique was a pain in the rear but oh so worth it. Personally, this is my favorite even though the lace on the bra is not even. Don’t look to close . . .
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| The illustration |
The tap pants have a fixed waist band and are accented with a baby silk rose. The lace applique was a pain in the rear but oh so worth it. Personally, this is my favorite even though the lace on the bra is not even. Don’t look to close . . .
To do this one, I recommend a great deal of time and some pins . . .lots of pins really. Take the lace at one piece at a time because to pin all the lace on at once and then sew will lead to some colorful language and some skewed lines. Trust me. I found the best way to tackle this one is to go slow, do one part at time, and admire what you accomplish. Also, press often.
Black Set with Top Stitching
The second set I made I decided to make generous use of a very simple technique that take only a spool or two of thread and your time. In other words, if you need a cheap method of embellishment, I recommend top stitching. Although you really can't see it well here (although you can certainly see the white cat hair . . .figures), I top stitched the lower cups straight across, and the upper cups by following the overall lines of the top cups. The sides I did as well in a cross hatched pattern.
To do this one, I started with the bra front all made up and pressed and then picked a pint on where to start. You can start anywhere you want and do any design you want too. To ensure that the stitched are even spaces apart, I used the foot of my machine as a guide. Once the front cups have been top stitched to your heart’s content, add the sides and you can top stitch those too. To make sure that as you work, your project remains smooth and un- puckered, I recommend frequent pressing. For this set, I left the tap pants plain.
