Tis the time of year when trimmings are on the mind (or were . . .but I bet now you are taking them down so they may still be on your mind). Today I want to talk abut trimmings but not the one for your tree or mantle. Today I want to look at fashionable trimmings in German fashion. how were women trimming their dresses? Were they using ruffles, or ribbon or applique? For this post I want to talk trimmings and all of this was because someone asked a really good question.
A reader of mine asked a very good question about rick rack trimming and if it was an American trend or if was seen in German dresses too. I thought this was an excellent question because it got me thinking. I started to think if indeed I had seen rick rack trimming on dresses and then I began to ponder what other trimmings were worn as well. For now, I want to take a look at some trimmings that show up in German fashion using my Der Goldene Schnitt books as well as some other period sources. For the purpose of this study, I am calling trimmings the details that can be added to a dress as an afterthought or also the trimmings that can be added in the making process but are not required for the structural integrity of the dress.
Techniques
Before we go looking at all the fun little trims, I want to talk about how they were applied to the garment itself. Trims were applied to clothes using a variety of methods from sewing them into the garment during construction like you would do with piping or else stitched into place like with applique. Stitches were more than likely small or else large depending on if the trimming was meant to be removed at some point for easy updates.Ruffles & Shirring & Puffing & Pleating
Ruffles are a trimming that show up here and there in German fashion as edging around a pocket or around the bottom of a hem line. Shirring or Puffing is very controlled gathering along side both edges of a material to make it into a trimming. It is then sewn into a garment by treating it as an insertion. These are often called 'self fabric' trims because they are often made using the same material as the dress or else a contrasting fabric. Below is an excellent example from my 1940 copy of Der Goldene Schnitt. The dress to the right is using a pleated trim at her hem line and as insertion for the front of her bodice. She even has what looks like braiding at the neckline. For the girl to the left, she is using either puffings or ruffles at the front of her dress and near the hem line.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941 How to add ruffles and play with circles. . . . . |
Buttons
Buttons seemed to be a very common element to German dresses as they were both functional and decorative. Often seen on the backs of bodices of dresses, I would say that here the top four or five are definitely functional to allow the head to get into the neckline but below that, probably decorative especially if there is a side zipper to get into the outfit. For front buttoning garments, having more than necessary would count as a trimming yes? Pushing them from functional to decorative and functional. Why were buttons a popular choice? I would suggest that buttons were popular because they could be made at home from all sorts of material, could be made to match (if a random assortment) by covering in fabric, and could offer easy updates to old clothes. Buttons could also be easily salvaged from old clothes.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
Pockets
Pockets as a trimming? Yes. Looking at patterns, there are many dresses that have pockets that appear too small to be really practical and so I imagine that they are decorative. Pockets can be added to a garment or else easily removed and require very little material and skill to assemble. Below is a nice example of a pocket as well as decorative buttons (on the pockets) and some sort of trimming around the center front placket and pockets. Pockets too could be in an assortment of shapes. . .
Rick Rack
Rick rack trimmings, the reason for this post . . .Taking a study of the sources I have on hand, rick rack was not seen on many main stream adult clothes in my pattern book but definitely on some children's wear and on two examples of adult women's dresses that were more traditional than anything else. Why is this? Well, I am not too sure to be honest. It could be as simple as it was not very popular as it was in the States or was simply not available as often. The exception that I found was in a rather traditional looking dress that I think was definitely inspired by the traditional costumes found in Germany. If you look closely, you can kind of see a wavy looking trimming at the front bodice yoke and sleeve that does appear to look like a tick rack trimming. After I found this one image, I started going through the rest more closely and then found one more in a very similar style to this one. After exhausting my books, I turned to the internet and tried to find some original dresses and clothing items with rick rack. Did I find any? Yes I did and you can see it here. The original piece I found was a felt belt with rick rack trimming sewn in place with some felt flowers and hearts appliqued and stitched on with embroidery stitches.
Flat Ribbon or Trimmings
For flat trimmings, ribbons I am guessing, in all kinds could be applied in a variety of ways in all sorts of shapes and designs. Below is an example where I think some ribbon was applied in a large zig zag pattern at the collar and of the skirt. Here to is a nice example of some decorative buttons. Second in line are some aprons that use flat ribbons as a binding to encase a raw edge or else as a trimming to simply decorate a finished apron.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
Applique is I think the most beautiful of trimming in German dresses and this is a trimming that can add a lot of sophistication if done right. Embroidery too can also add a really lovely and unique touch to a garment. The reason why I grouped both of these together is that because I have seen these techniques used in combination of each other more than once. For an example, look here at this traditional vest with appliques felt flowers and embroidery stitches and for another charming example of a dress with embroidery, check it out here. To follow are some examples of both applique and embroidery or applique added to dresses in different way. Below, an example of large leaved applied to the dress from 1941. This is a really unique place to add something, yes? Here the large leaves are added to the chest and back.  |
| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941 |
Below, here is a princess seamed dress with bows. These bows could simply be little bows tacked into place or else they are small ribbon bows that are appliqued on. I was not sure which category to apply this one but I think it works here because the bows appear to be rather small and made of a fine ribbon. Also, look at how the seams are finished. I think this dress could be made by making each piece, binding it and then carefully hand stitching the bound pieces together. What a project that would be, yes? Bows seemed to be a really popular trimming option for German dresses especially for young women. These bows were added to the dresses in all sorts of ways and then they were also worn as an accessory for women of all ages (like at the neck for a neckbow).
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941 |
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| Frauen - Warte, 1943-44 |
Above is another example of flat ribbons being used as a trimming. I find this to be a really cool example of using ribbons because they are using them as both decorative and as functional ties. I may have to try this out for myself one of these days. . .
Applique and Embroidery
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| Der Goldene Schitt, 1941 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941 |
Above, an example of either applique or embroidery done to the yoke, waist band, and skirt. Here, I think the placement of the trimming was done really well as it highlights the lines of the dress. Below, take a look at the top in the lower left hand corner. To me, I think that floral design could have been done in an embroidery or even an applique. One trend that I see with this kind of trimming, applique and embroidery, is that natural or floral elements are the most common motifs.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
Below is a really interesting design that I think would look really well done in an applique. Here, if you look closely, it is done on the front and back with chevron looking shapes that round off at the bottom. Note the zipper usage too.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
Furs
For winter warmth and texture, fur was a trimming option seen on suits and dresses as well as coats and other sorts of outerwear. The kinds of furs vary immensely and were applied in all kinds of ways as well. For more on furs in German fashion, check out my past post here.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1940 |
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1949 |
Whether ribbons, self fabric ruffles, or applique, German dresses could be trimmed in an assortment of ways depending on the desired of the dress maker or home seamstress. Of course, what I have listed here is by no means an exhaustive list. In Irene Guenther's work, Nazi Chic? There are mentions of dresses being trimmed in beads, sequins, and even feathers for the most elaborate dresses. Lace too was an option for trimming but seen largely on collars and cuffs and other detachable items. When I see lace used or applied directly to the dress, it is rare. Depending on your sewing skills, impression, or preferences, that will determine what kind of trimmings you want on your clothes if any. Trimming can vary immensely too dress to dress and from designer to designer. I think when researching trimmings for your own look, look closely and take inspiration from originals like from this great original one which uses a really unique idea and you can see it here. Take time to read the little translations too. When I made my evening gown, I read the little description for it and I was quite surprised. Below, the original illustration and know what the neckline and sleeve trimmings are? Well, recommend in the description are tulle flowers carefully stitched onto silk with the silk then cut away. Unique trimming, yes? I thought so too.
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| Der Goldene Schnitt, 1941 |
