Sabtu, 20 Januari 2018

Raglan Sleeved Coats, 1940


Raglan sleeves are an interesting element to a coat in that they almost eliminate the traditional arm hole seam and leave you with two seams, one at the front, and the other at the back of each respective sleeve. Here are two different styles of coat for you to tinker with and each one uses a raglan sleeve. On the left is a plain coat with a notched collar and is double breasted. On the right, a high necked coat with no visible buttons so you could use snaps or else use buttons with a hidden placket.
Overall, these patterns give you a good chance to play around with darts in the Lutterloh system. On the sleeves, there are darts but in two different places so you can make a raglan sleeve in two completely different ways. For the first one, the one in the upper right hand corner, there is only one very large dart to shape the shoulder. For that dart, that takes up a lot of material so you may want to consider cutting that one open once sewn and pressing it open. That sleeve appears to go with the notched collar coat. The notched collar coat appears to have some lines indicating facings and it also has a back pleat.
The next sleeve is different and uses two pieces and a dart at the elbow. The larger of the two piece is the back of the sleeve.